Archive for category Manual
There are many ways of growing vegetables; in fields, beds, trenches, flooded areas, sunken beds, rows, vertically, square foot beds, grow bags boxes and pots, even in nutrient rich water.
In our area people generally rotivate their land each spring and plant the vegetable gardens out in rows like a mini version of field cultivation. I followed the local way in our first year here but found that our light stony soil was non the better for it; the nutrients and humus I added were just getting washed away during the torrential rains in autumn. So now I prefer a raised bed system; for our sloping growing land with soil that is light, shallow and stony over rock, a raised bed system is what works for us.
Benefits of using a raised bed system
- Soil depth is increased as mulches are applied each year
- Soil does not get compacted because it is not being walked on
- Soil is kept aerated and weeded by hoeing the top few inches
- Soil structure is improved by keeping it undisturbed (digging light soil just turns it to dust).
- Soil fertility can be improved as and where needed and in rotation
- Water is conserved by tailoring irrigation to the needs of the crops in each bed
- Planning and rotating the growing area is easier because beds are fixed
- Easier to provide specific soil requirements for plants with special needs.
- On a sloping site a raised bed can level the growing area
- Work is reduced by digging soil only once and thereafter leaving it alone
- Taller edges can be made to protect and support some plants
- It just looks tidy! when i go down to the kitchen gardens it is easy to walk between the beds and harvest what i need.
For us the benefits of a raised bed system outweigh the downsides. Raised beds are less suitable to the light sandy soil and dry conditions we have here, as raised beds have a tendency to dry out faster. However, the fact that the beds won’t be dug over again helps to maintain the soils structure and by top dressing with muck and compost twice a season and mulching in summer we are able to increase the fertility and water retention of the soil making it less prone to drying out in the long term. The bed edges also help to protect the top soil from being whipped away by the long, dry summer winds.
Edging the beds
I did try to just visually mark the bed boundaries because I wanted to be able to change the layout each year but I found that the top dressings and nutrients got washed away in the heavy rains. The higher the planting areas got and the lower the paths got the more got washed away and the growing areas became smaller in time. So I ended up edging the beds.
Ours are not the smartest looking beds, most are edged with whatever i can get my hands on; old planks, the round end bits of trees left over from milling, flat stones, I even tried making some woven edges – far too pretty for my garden, rather pointless and they only lasted a single season but they did look cute (see pic above). I have learned to just make the best use of what I have around without causing myself extra work.
Adapting growing methods to climate and land
We live in a mountainous area which has unfortunately been given over to the mono-culture of pine trees but it would have been covered in a mixed deciduous forest with shrub and low growing plants. This year I plan to start fencing off some new areas of land to try growing edibles in a more natural forest-like way. No fixed beds just a layering of planting that will mirror the way plants grow in nature with trees, bushes, climbers, perennials and annuals (if they self seed) all taking their place. I want to see for myself which is more productive and uses the least water; the permaculture way as advocated by Bill Mollison or the fixed bed intensive growing the way i do it now. Gardening is about adapting and being open to find out what works for each piece of land and climate see Kate’s picture of some clever irrigated sunken vegetable beds in India @ Hills and Plain.
Revised and adapted from my original post 26/3/2007
Leafy green brassicas of the turnip family, which were developed in the far east and collectively referred to as: Chinese Cabbage, Oriental greens or Chinese brassicas. This group of plants really deserve their place in any kitchen garden because they are fast growing, versatile in the kitchen and nutritious, easy to cultivate and they taste delicious. I am keen to experiment with more leafy veg in this family but here are some of my favourites so far.
Pak Choi or Bok Choy Brassica rapa var chinensis
This delightful vegetable has crisp, juicy stalks with a light, but lovely, flavour and only a hint of mustard.
Known to have been cultivated in China, since the 5th century, there are many variations of this old vegetable; ranging in height from 10cm to 60cm, leaves can be the classic spoon-shaped or thin stemmed, the leaves are pale to dark green and the stalks range from white to green. Quick growing, pak choi can be picked at the baby stage in 4 weeks, mature stage in 5-8 weeks and can be cut to grow again for a second or more harvest. In the kitchen it can be stir-fried, added to soups, used in salads, pickled, steamed or boiled and dressed as a side vegetable or cooked salad. The flowering shoots are also edible and are used like broccoli.
Varieties: Canton Dwarf is the one I seed save and grow. Short spoon shape with crisp white stems. Green Revolution small spoon shape with light green crisp stems, Mei Qing Choi small spoon shape with crisp light green stems.
Tatsoi or Rosette pak choi Brassica rapa var rosularis
A loose-heading prostrate rosette plant with dark green, almost black, crinkled leaves and crisp white to yellowy green stems. It has slightly mustardy leaves and a strong brassica flavour. Given enough room and cool conditions the plants will form beautiful wide prostrate rosettes, as the weather starts to warm in spring the leaves tend to grow upright. The whole plant may be harvested at once or the leaves can be picked continuously for several weeks. It can also be cut to grow again for a second or more harvest. In the kitchen it can be stir fried, used in soups or lightly boiled then dressed and served at room temperature as a side vegetable or salad. It has a more robust flavour than Pak Choi and can take a strong dressing.
Varieties: Yukina yellowy pale green stems and dark green slightly crinkled leaves. Tah Tsai a very old variety from China, pale green stems and dark green slightly crinkled leaves.
Chinese Cabbage Brassica rapa var pekinensis
Sometimes known as Chinese leaves or nappa cabbage, there are two main types of Chinese cabbage; a tall loose hearting leaf variety and a tall cylindrical cabbage where the leaves fold-in to form a dense head. Both have wide white ribs and pale green leaves. The second variety is the one most commonly found in supermarkets. Be carefull when buying chinese cabbage seeds I’ve found that often the picture or description may be of the more commonly known dense form even though the variety is a loose heading form.
Varieties: Michili has an elongated loose semi-heading shape that resembles romaine lettuce with light green leaves with broad white ribs. Green Tower a loose heading variety.
Mizuna Brassica rapa var nipposinica or var japonica
Mizuna has green serrated leaves on slender white stems, the leaves are delicate enough to eat raw and have a slightly pungent mustardy flavour. The plants are very forgiving and vigorous. Mizuna will grow on poorer soils, is cold resistant and of all the oriental brassicas it can cope best with the hot dry conditions of our summers. It is quick to mature and picking can start in as little as 8 weeks. Normally, with good spacing the plant will form bushy clumps but it can also be closely spaced and cut young to regrow after cutting.
In the kitchen Leaves and stems can be used raw in salads and make a great addition to a mixed winter leaf salad. They are also great cooked; lightly boiled & dressed to serve at room temperature as a side vegetable, or cooked in stir-fries or soups, the young flowering stems can be used like broccoli. In Japan Mizuna is salt pickled.
PLANNING A HARVEST
Lush oriental brassicas perform best in cooler weather preferring temperatures between 15-20 Celsius. These are my sowing dates according to how they grow best in a Mediterranean climate, dates may be adjusted for cooler climates. They can be sown in cell trays and transplanted or sown directly and thinned out. Mature plants will not stand long before bolting so i find it best to sow in succession and to grow small amounts at a time for harvesting between November and April. Seed catalogues often suggest sowing oriental brassicas in April-May but they simply will not stand the temperatures in mid summer here so I grow them as follows.
|Sow direct 1cm deep or in cells and TP
10-15 cm apart
Rows 25-35cm apart.
|Sow direct 1cm deep or in cells and TP
45cm apart for rosette 15-30cm blocks for CCA
Rows 45cm apart.
Oct – Dec
|TP Sow direct 1cm deep or in cells and TP 15cm apart.
Rows 20-40cm apart.
|Sow direct 1.5cm deep or TP to 25cm apart.Rows 30cm apart.|
Key ( ) means sown/grown undercover. CCA means cut & come again TP means Transplant
Note I have tried Komatsuna and Choy Sum but neither performed well and I was not that keen on eating them either, but perhaps I should give them another go now that I have a polytunnel and know how to get the best from other plants in the same family.
Oriental Vegetables; The Complete Guide for the Gardening Cook Joy Larkom
Original post 9/3/2008: Oriental Brassicas
I bought a single plant from a farmers market at Coustellet in the Luberon, from organic growers, Rachel and Frederic Smets and their “jardin de nos grands-meres…” who specialise in ancient or forgotten varieties which they grow on their farm near Bonnieux . Their stall was packed with exotic looking plants for the potager many of which I did know but one, the Morelle De Balbis, stood out as I had no idea what it was so I had to buy one to plant to see what it would become.
It turned out what I bought was Solanum Sisymbriifolium or Litchi Tomato. Litchi Tomato is a fairly rare Solanum producing lovely white flowers followed by 4-5cm red fruits enclosed in a prickly husk. The husk splits open when the fruit is ripe.
It is quite an unpleasant plant really. It grows to rather large proportions, I did not know to expect but I thought it would grow something like a tomato but what I got was a monster over 8ft tall that crowded out a good 16ft square of its raised bed. Not only is it huge but it is covered with the most vicious spines. I tied it up, cut it back but it still managed to get me every time I passed it. I can forgive any plant for horrible growth habbits if it tastes good but I really found the fruit of this plant disappointing.
The fruit are almost heart shaped with a little point and have a smooth red skin, which is strong but not tough, and yellow juicy flesh. The taste is not mind blowing, it is neither sour or sweet. Seed sellers say that the fruit are acidic with the taste of a Litchi but I didn’t find the ones from my plant had very much taste at all. Baker Creek reckon they taste ‘like a cherry crossed with a tomato’ – but to me they don’t taste much like either. They have an insipid flavour. Of course I have tasted only the fruit from a single plant so it is hardly a fair assessment. The fruit can apparently be eaten raw or cooked and are used to make sauces and jams. I did not try cooking them perhaps more flavour could be got by boiling them with sugar.
The fruit are impossible, well nothing is impossible but they are painful to pick until they are ripe. Once ripe the spiky casings pull right back and the red fruit are exposed and can just be plucked without much injury. Clever really.
These plants come from the tropical regions of South America and are not frost hardy. Best grown like tomatoes. Sow in heat in early spring and plant out after the last frost. Matures in over 90 days from transplant so may need a long warm season climate.
I think the best way is like you would save seeds for an aubergine: to pulp the fruit with plenty of water, in a large glass, rinsing and draining off all floating debris then collect the seeds that have sank to the bottom of the glass. Spread out on a plate to dry.
Would I grow this again?
Well maybe but I’d have to put it somewhere where it won’t be a danger, not near paths or bed edges so it can grow as it likes without spiking me or anyone else. What is does have going for it though is that it is tough and resilient, it will stand heat and drought which for me is important. My second gardening year here was hit by drought. No rains from September to September meant that I lost a lot of crops and that is one of the reasons why I am so keen to experiment with growing a wide range of food crops and particularly ones that will crop without water
I’ll have some seeds left to share if anyone wants some seeds or they can be bought from
Other Sources of Info
Le solanum sisymbrifolium
A la découverte de la morelle de Balbis (Solanum sisymbriifolium)
Posted collated from 3 posts 30/4/2008, 24/8/2008, 15/10/2008:
It has taken me some time to find the seeds for the varieties I want to grow this year but I’ve finally done it and this is my selection for 2010. Plenty of old reliable must grow varieties, some new things I am desperate to grow for the kitchen, some varieties that I am growing to photograph for seed catalogues, some I am not sure what they are but came by the seeds in swaps and others because well I am obsessed. I want to at least try to grow everything and anything edible I possibly can. You just never know what might turn out to be an edible diamond. So this is my seed list for 2010, there’s a lot of varieties this year and I just hope I can fit them all in.
ONION Allium cepa
Maincrop Sow after the shortest day of the year S(Dec-Jan) TPFeb PMarch
Succession Sow S 1.Feb-April 2. Mar-May 3.MidAug-MidSept H Aug-Sept/April-June/April-Sept Some vars Sept-April Dates listed for individual vars as per seed source.
Onion Tropea Rossa Lunga (F) S:[July-Sept] or Mar-May H May-Sept new
Onion Rossa Lunga di Firenze (F) S:[July-Sept] or Mar-May H May-Sept new
Onion Blanca de Lisboa S:mid Jan-Feb TP March-April H Aug-Sept
Onion Walla Walla (O) SMar-Apr HMid June-Oct Sweet Salad onion
Onion Giugnese (F) S[July-Sept] or Mar-May H May-Sept
Onion Tonda Musona (F) S[July-Sept] or Mar-May H May-Sept
Onion Blanc Blanc de Paris SAug-Sept HApr-July
Onion De Rebouillon* (O) Bulb SAug-Sept H Apr-July. Scallions S Apr-May H May-July
Onion Japanese Bunching Long White Tokyo SMar-Jun HMay-Oct
Onion Barletta SFeb-April Poly
Onion Rose de Roscoff (SW) P March growing for seed
GARLIC Allium Sativum P Oct-Jan
Garlic Asiatic? Turban (SWPatrick/SS)
Leek Bleu de Solaise (V) S (Feb-Mar) March-May PJun-Jul HDec-Mar could sow earlier
Leek Musselburgh S(Jan-Feb) March-April HNov-Mar
Welsh Onion Allium fistulosum Commune Rouge (FSM) SFeb-May HApr-Nov Perennial
Tree Onion Allium cepa proliferum Amish (SWPatrick) perennial P autumn
Tree Onion Allium cepa proliferum Egyptian Walking Onion (SWPatrick) perennial P autumn
Garlic Chives (FSM) Allium tuberosum S: Spring or early autumn
Broccoli, Purple Sprouting Botrytis Cymosa Group Rudolph extra early* (O) SMar-May TP H Dec-Jan
Broccoli, Purple Sprouting Botrytis Cymosa Group Late (T&M) SApr-May TPJun-Jul HJan-Feb
Broccoli, Purple Sprouting Botrytis Cymosa Group Early (O) SApr-May TPJun-Jul H Mar
Brussels Sprouts, Gemmifera Group Noisette or Mezzo Nano(O) S(Feb-Mar) PApr-May HOct-Dec
Cabbage, capitata group Savoy Ormskirk* (T) SApr-May TPJun-Jul HNov-Apr
Cabbage, capitata group Golden Acre (SH) SFeb-May HJun-Sept New
Cabbage, capitata group Red Acre (SW Candy) New
Cauliflower Botrytis Group All Year Round S(Jan-Mar)Mar-Jun, Sept-Oct HJun-Oct New
Cauliflower Botrytis Group Italica Romanesco (Un) SApr-May HSep-Oct
Cauliflower Botrytis Group Italica Romanesco Precococe (F) SMay-July TPMay-July H Nov-Jan
Kale Acephala Group Red Russian* (SW Ireland) SJan-Jun TP before mid August HNov-Mar
Kale Acephala Group Cavolo Laciniato* Nero di Toscanna Precoce (F) SMay-Jul TPJun-Aug HOct-Dec New strain
Kale Acephala Group Dwarf Green Curled SMar-May PMay-Jun HSept-Mar New
Kale Acephala Group Asparagus Kale (HSL) SMay TP July-Aug
Kale Acephala Group Georgia Southern Collard (HSL) SMay TP July-Aug
Kale B.O longata? Jersey Walking Stick (O) SApr-May TP June-Jul HNov-Mar New 2010
Collard Greens Acephala Group Vates (SW) SJan-Jun TP before mid August HNov-Mar
Kohlrabi Gongylodes Group Purple Vienna (I) S(Jan-Feb) May-July/ June-Aug HApr-Nov
Chinese Broccoli alboglabra group Kailaan (O) SJune-Aug
Oriental and other brassica Greens and Mustards
S1.[Jan-Feb] 2.May-Aug 3.Sept-Oct 4.[Nov-Jan]
Chinese Cabbage B.rapa var Pekinensis unknown var
Chinese Cabbage B.rapa var Pekinensis Michihli
Chinese Cabbage B.rapa var Pekinensis Wong Bok SJun-Aug HAug-Oct
Pak Choi B.rapa var chinensis (K) unknown var
Pak Choi B.rapa var chinensis Canton Dwarf (SS) SSept-Oct [Nov-Jan]
Rosette pak choi B.rapa var rosularis Tatsoi (O)
Mizuna B. rapa var nipposinica or japonica (SS) SMay-Aug or Sept
Komatsuna B.rapa var perviridis (O-Photo) 2010 SMar-Sept HApril> cut 40days
Oriental Greens Stir Fry Mix (O) SApril-Sept contains White Pak Choi, Chinese Kale Full White, Tatsoi, Kaillan, Choy Sum Yukina and Savoy.
Texsel Greens B.carinata Abyssinian Cabbage/Ethiopean Mustard (T) S(Feb or Oct) SMar-Sept.
Indian Mustard Greens Brassica juncea (O) SJune-Sept HAutumn-spring. 55days
MAIZE Zea Mays
S[April]-May PMay-June HJuly-Sept
Sweetcorn Stowells Evergreen (O-Photo) 2010
Strawberry Popcorn (SW) Corn, Popcorn Zea Mays (SWFrance) S(April)May PMay-June HAug-Oct
Sow in pots early mid spring and set out after frost S(March-April) TPMay-June
Armenian Cucumber Cucumis melo var.flexuosus (SW) 2009 Poly
Hairy Cucumber Cucucmis melo Bari (SW/SS)
Cucumber Cucumis sativus Satsuki Madori (SW) new 2010
Cucumber (Gherkin) Cucucmis sativus Fin de Meaux (Tz/SS) Poly
Courgette C. pepo Verte D’Italie (G) 2008,2009
Squash, C.pepo Patty Pan Mixed SMar-May HSep-Oct (Un) new 2010
Squash, C.pepo Yellow Crookneck (SW-Mike@PlanB) new 2010
Squash, C.pepo Delicata (O) aka ‘sweet potato squash’ Trailing habit
Squash C.pepo Table Queen (O)
Pumpkin C.maxima Queensland Blue (SW-Matron)
Pumpkin C.maxima Marina di Chioggia (F)
Squash, Winter C.moschata Butternut * (SS)
Gourds & Unusual Cucurbits
Snake Gourd? lagenera alargadisima lunghissima de sicilia (SW) new 2010
Ridge Gourd/Luffa* Luffa actangula
Sponge Gourd/Luffa smooth Failed 2009 try again
Bitter Gourd/Karela Momordica Charantia. Failed 2009 try again
Achocha Cyclanthera pedata Fat Baby (SW) Failed 2009 try again
Calebasse Lagenaria siceraria (K) new probably edible but growing for the shell
Bottle Gourd (SW) new probably edible but growing for the shell
Watermelon Citrullus vulgaris Kleckley’s Sweet (SW)
Watermelon Citrullus vulgaris Cream of Saskatchewan (SW)
Watermelon Citrullus vulgaris Yellow from NZ (SW)
Melon Cucumis melo Zatta (Ugly but Good) (F) S[Feb-Apr] TP/S May-June HJul-Nov
LEAFY GREENS & SALAD
Amaranth (Amaranthus caudatus) SApr-May and July-Aug.
Chicory (Cichorium intybus) Variegata Di Chioggia (F)
Chicory (Cichorium intybus) Rouge de Vérone (V) Radicchio S May-July H Oct-March
Chicory (Cichorium intybus) Rossa di Treviso 2 (F) Radicchio S May-Sept H Sept-Dec upright with long red leaves
Chicory (Cichorium intybus) Sugar Loaf (V) SJun-Aug
Chicory (Cichorium intybus) Witloof (Forcing) SMay-July Lift Oct HNov-Mar
Chicory (Cichorium intybus) Barbe de Capucin (Forcing) (G) SMar-Aug HJun-Mar
Chicory (Cichorium intybus) Catalogna Gigante Chioggia (F) S:Mar-Sept
Corn salad/Mâche (Valerianella locusta) A Grosse Graine S:July-Sept, Aug-Oct H:Sept-March
Corn salad/Mâche (Valerianella locusta) Ronde Maraîchère S:Aug-Oct H:Sept-March
Corn salad/Mâche (Valerianella locusta) Coquille de Louviers S:Mid July-Oct H:Sept-March Spacing 20cm (V)
Endive (Cichorium endiva) Frisée De Meaux S(Feb-Mar)May-July HMay-Aug-Oct
Endive (Cichorium endiva) Frisée Fin de Louviers S(Feb-Mar) May-July H May-July & Aug-Oct
Endive (Cichorium endiva) Scarole Ronde verte à coeur plein SMay-Aug
Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum)
Malabar Spinach (Red) SMay-Jun new
Rocket Cultivated* (Eruca Sativa M.) SMar-Oct H:All year
Rocket, Wild (Diplotaxis tenuifolia) SMar-Sept
Chrysanthemum Greens (Chrysanthemum coronarium) S(Feb-March&Sept) & May-Aug
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) Géant d’Hiver * S Aug-Oct (Oct-Nov-Feb) H Oct-April
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) Bloomsdale Longstanding (HSL) (39days) new
Swiss Chard (Beta vulgaris var.cicla) Verte a Carde Blanche* (G)(Feb-March) April-June + September
LETTUCE Lactuca sativa
Sow Spring (Dec-Feb), Summer (March-May), Autumn (June-Aug), Winter (Sept-Nov)
May King (Crisphead) winter/spring (O-Photo) 2010
Winter Density (Cos) Winter/spring S:Aug-Sept
Brune D’Hiver Butterhead Winter/Spring
Rouge D’Hiver Romaine Winter/Spring
Rougette de Montpellier butterhead Winter/spring
Valdor (Butterhead) Winter undercover/spring S:Sept-Oct
Corsair (Cos) spring/summer
Sherwood (Cos) spring/summer
Regina dei Ghiacci* (Iceberg) spring/summer
Paris Island Cos (Cos) spring/summer
Sucrine (Romaine) summer
Little Gem (Semi-Cos) summer
Craquerelle du Midi (batavia) summer
Laura (Batavia) summer/autumn
Rouge Grenobloise* (Batavian) autumn/winter lettuce, good in cold and shade.
Verde D’Inverno (Cos) Autumn/Winter/spring S:(Feb-April) July-Oct H Autumn / winter
Gloire de Dauphiné (Batavia) Autumn/Winter/spring S May-July /Sept-Oct New
Greek Maroulli (Cos) (63days) (HSL) 2010
Soulie (butterhead) Heirloom ?
Red Leprechaun (Romaine) autumn ?
Green Salad Bowl, (Loose-leaf) all year S:March-Sept
Red Salad Bowl (Loose-leaf) all year S:March-Sept
Lollo Rosso (Loose-leaf) all year S:March-Sept
Bronze Arrow (looseleaf) all year (HSL) 2010
Sword Lettuce (Lactuca longifolia) Yu Mai Tsai Leaf (SWCandy)
LEGUMES Leguminosae (Fabaceae)
Haricot or Common Bean Phaseolus vulgaris
Sow Direct (March) April-Mid Aug H June-Oct
Haricot (Bush) Fin de Bagnols green filet
Haricot (Bush) Maxidor *(SS) yellow beurre bean
Haricot (Bush) Roi des Beurres / Kinghorn yellow beurre bean S:Mid July
Haricot (Bush) Black Turtle (SW) new 2010
Haricot (Pole) Mountaineers (HSL) White Half Runner new 2010
Haricot (Pole) Blue Queen (HSL) 15-20cm long purple pods new 2010
Haricot (Pole) Supermarconi (F) flat podded green new 2010
Haricot (Pole) Rattlesnake (SW-Mike@PlanB) new 2010
Haricot (Bush) Black Turtle (SWFrance) new 2010
Haricot (Pole) True Red Cranberry (shelling) (SW) new 2010
Pea Pisum sativum
Annual cool season crop Sow round seeded 15 Feb-15 April & End July H May-June & Oct in mild areas S Sept-Nov H March-April wrinkle peas
Pea Duke of Albany Maincrop, Tall
Pea Alderman Maincrop, Tall wrinkled S March 100days
Pea Epicure (HSL) Tall-2-3m new 2010
Pea Mangetout Pisum sativum macrocarpon
Pea (snap) Sugar Anne (O) dwarf S April
Pea (snap) Sugar Snap (O) dwarf S April
Pea (snow) Norli (DO) Tall
Pea (snow) Carouby de Maussane (G) Tall SFeb-April new 2010
Bean, Broad Vicia Faba. Aquadulce (V) S Oct-Nov H April-May early var
Bean, Runner Phaseolus coccineus Scarlet Emperor (SS) perennial Early
Bean, Long Green Vigna sesquipedalis (F/SS) Undercover (March-April)
Bean, Long Red Vigna sesquipedalis (F/SS) Undercover (March-April)
Bean, Soya Glycine max Fiskeby (SW) new 2010
Chickpea (Cicer arietinum) new 2010
Peanut (Arachis hypogaea) S[Feb-Mar] TP May H Sept 2009
OKRA Abelmoschus esculentus
Sow in Heat early/mid-spring March-April Transplant after last frost
Okra Texas (SW)
PARSNIP Pastinaca sativa S March-April
Parsnip Demi-Long de Guernsey (C) SFeb-May H Sept-April
CARROT Daucus carota
S (Jan-Feb & Nov) S March-July main crop carrot.
Carrot Gigante Flakkée (F) SMarch-July late
Carrot John’s Purple (HSL)
Carrot Red Elephant (HSL)
Carrot Rainbow Mix (O)
Carrot Amsterdam Forcing (O) S(Feb)
BEETROOT Beta vulgaris
I (Oct-Nov) II March-April, III May-June, IV July-Aug
Beetroot Boltardy* (O) early/main crop S:March (S: Nov in polytunnel).
Beetroot di Chioggia (SW) SApr-July Old Italian salad beetroot.
Beetroot Cylindra SApr-July HJuly-Oct
Beetroot Golden Detroit (O) SApr-June HAug-Nov
RADISH Raphanus Sativus
Daikon SJuly-Aug (SW-Kate) Harvest 10-12 wks failed 2009
Daikon Mooli Minowase Nr2 SMay-Aug or July onwards HAug-Nov
Radish Giant Luo Buo (SWCandy) S Late summer early autumn ready 75 days.
Radish French Breakfast (V) S Jan-Feb
Radish Pink Beauty (O-Photo) 2010 SFeb-Sept HMay-Oct
Radish White Icicle (SWCandy) a daikon type radish
TURNIP Brassica rapa var. rapa
Turnip, Rave D’Auvergne Sow late summer / autumn for winter
FENNEL Foeniculum vulgare
Sow after midsummer for autumn & winter crop.(November in polytunnel for spring crop).
Fennel de Parma Sel Prado (F)
Fennel (SW) unknown var
SALSIFY Tragopogon porrifolius
Salsify Mammouth a fleur Rose SMar-June HOct-Apr
AUBERGINES Solanum Melongena
Annual prefers Hot & Humid conditions S Jan-Mar in heat and plant out after last frost.
*White Egg (SS)
Thai Long Green (SW)
Thai Round white / green (SW)
Black Beauty (SW)
Sow undercover 6-8 weeks before last frost, can take up to 3 weeks to germinate, plant out mid spring – early summer or sow direct. S: Mar-April P or S direct May
Physalis (Physalis Peruviana) Coqueret de Perou Height 70-100m (FSM) 2009
Perennial prefers Hot conditions S (Nov) plant out undercover March-April or Sow Jan-Mar in heat
S Jan-Mar in heat or Aug-Nov for indoors
Doux D’Espagne/ Spanish Mammoth (SS)* Outstanding sweet pepper
Californian Wonder Orange (SS)*
Yellow Cornos (SW/SS) Yellow tapered
Giallo D’Asti Yellow (F) new
Topepo Rosso (F/SS) Red Round tomato shaped pepper.
Cecei (Sweet White pepper) (SWNóra) Hungary new 2010
Kocsolai (Sweet red pepper) (SWNóra) Hungary new 2010
Aci Sivri* (SW) Turkey
Alma Paprika (SWCandy) Heat Level 1 new 2010
Cayenne* (SS) Guyana
Chile De Arbol* (SW)
Cyklon mildly hot Poland new 2010
De Bresse (O) Medium Hot France new 2010
D’Espelette (SS) Heat 3-4/10 French Basque
Exploding Ember (SW/SS)
Fish Pepper (SW) Heat 10/10
Guajillo (SWCandy) Mexico Heat Level 5-6/10 new 2010
Guindilla* (MS) Heat 3-4/10 Spain
Grandpa’s Home Pepper (SS) Siberia
India Goat Horn (SW) not true but like what I got so breed this one
Jalapeño, Conchos (SW/SS) Heat 4/10
Jalapeño, Early (O) Medium Hot
Kashmiri I 2009 (MS)
Kashmiri II 2009 (MS)
Kalocsai (Hot paprika?) (SWNóra) Hungary new 2010
Oriental Red (MS) medium
Pasilla (k) Mexico Heat 1/10
Pasilla Bajio (SS)
Pepperoncini (K) & Golden Greek Pepperoncini (SS)?
Pimientos de Padrón Med+Hot Spain
Santaka Japan Heat 8/10 (SW)
Satan’s Kiss(F/SS) Italy Heat 1/10
Szegedi (Hot paprika) (SWNóra) Hungary new 2010
Thai Red (MS/SS) Heat Level 8-9
Tepin or Chiletepin C.Annuum var. glabriusculum Heat 8/10 Mexico
Aji Amarillo (MS) Peru Heat 7-8/10
Lemon Drop* Heat 8/10
Habanero, Peach C.Chinense Hot
Habanero, Red (MS) C.Chinense Hot
Trinidad Seasoning C.Chinense Mild (SW)
Rocoto Red Peru.
Tabasco Louisianna Heat 8/10 Poly
TOMATOES Lycopersicon esculentum
Sow in Heat early/mid-spring March-April or Direct May Transplant after last frost
Tomato Zapotec (SW Candy) Large pink-red fluted tomato. Mexican heirloom
Tomato Ceylon (SWCandy) mini-beefsteak heirloom tomato
Tomato Auntie Madge’s (HSL) small red plum tomato new 2010
Tomato Greek (HSL)
Tomato Double Rich* (K)(SS) red beefsteak
Tomato Cuostralee* (K)(SS) red beefsteak
Tomato Ananas / Pineapple yellow/red beefsteak
Tomato Caro Rich* (K/SS) orange
Tomato Reine D’Or (SS) yellow
Tomato White Beauty (O) White new 2010
Tomato Emerald Evergreen green beefsteak.
Tomato Andean Purple (SWCorsane) collected growing wild in the Andean foothills new 2010
Tomato Eva’s Purple Ball (SW/SS) pink/purple
Tomato Noir De Crimée *(V/SS)black
Tomato Green Zebra (HSL/SS) small vine yellow/green stripe
Tomato Peacevine or Gardeners Delight(HSL/SS) red cherry
Tomato Miel du Mexique (SS) large red cherry
Tomato Roma V.F. determinate paste
Tomato San Marzano2* paste
Tomato Cornu des Andes* paste
Quinoa, Temuco (HSL) S [April] TP May
Quinoa, Rainbow (HSL) S [April] TP May
Asparagus Asparagus officinalis* P spring
Sunchoke /Jerusalem Artichoke Helianthus tuberosus. Asteraceae P March H Nov-March
Cardoon Cynara cardunculus.Asteraceae Plein Blanc Enerme S (March-April)-May H Sept-Dec
Rhubarb Rheum undulatum S July-Sept P Oct-Dec Harvest the following year.
Mexican Tarragon (sweet mace)(SW Candy) Hardy Annual/Tender Perennial.
Summer Savory (SW Candy)
Mammoth Dill (SW Candy)
Mitsuba Japanese parsley (Honewort) (Cryptotaenia japonica) A hardy perennial woodland plant Sow late spring and early autumn (SWNóra)
Perilla/shiso (Perilla frutescens) Red
Perilla/shiso (Perilla frutescens) Korean large leaved green (SWCandy)
Basils: Genovese, Lime, Purple, Thai
Parsley Giant Italian Flatleaf
Alongside plenty of perennial herbs Rosemary, thyme, oregano, bay, tarragon, sage, mint etc.
KEY Those marked with a * are my favourite varieties ones I will always grow because they produce well and are valued in my kitchen.
S Sow TP Transplant P Plant H Harvest
Seed Source Code (SS) self saved (SW)Seed Swap (K) Kokopelli (HSL) Heritage Seed Library (F) Franchi Seeds (V)Vilmorin (DO) Duchy Originals (O) Organic Seed Catalogue (T) Tuckers Seeds (RS) Real Seeds (N) Nicky’s Seeds (PC) Potager d’un Curieux (Eden) The Eden Project (LeP) Le Paysan (Tz) Tezier (C) Caillard(AH) Amish Heirloom Seeds (Mar) saved from a market fruit
Protection for seedlings makes all the difference when raising your own plants. Making a lean-to-greenhouse doesn’t have to cost much it just need to be positioned to get good winter sun, and protect plants from wind. Rachel made this one out of old bits of wood and the glass came from a massive fish tank but you could stretch horticultural plastic or perspex over a wooden frame.
I think it is great and it has already made my life easier. It is designed to fit standard full size trays and double size trays on the ground with plenty of plant head room as well as slatted shelves to allow water to drain and keep air and light circulating.
The green-house is designed and situated in such a way that it will get the most light in winter when the sun is low and the least amount in summer when the sun is high. It is situated next to a large bush on the west side that adds further protection from midday and afternoon sun and is built against the stone wall of the house so that the heat absorbed by the walls during the day will be radiated back at night and keep any frost at bay. The wooden frame is built onto a concrete plinth on a slight slant so that excess water drains off and the roof and sides vent to keep the inside from getting too hot. The roof has a plastic rather than glass lid incase tiles or other debris drop from the roof. All in all it is just perfect for my needs and a safe place to harden off all my seedling plants and propagate the next batch.
Original post on Mas du Diable 19/6/2009
Mulching is a simple technique of covering bare soil to; protect it from erosion and compression and to suppress weeds and retain moisture. Soil can be mulched with hard materials such as plastics or stone but better still are materials that are degradable because they also add nutrients, humus and improve the condition of the soil over time.
Best materials to mulch with
- Garden compost with a minimum depth of 2.5cm
- Wilted comfrey leaves excellent around solanum family and soft fruit. Layer 2 -3 leaves deep
- Dried grass clippings 5cm deep
- Weed free straw 10-15cm (6”) which settles to less
- Bracken chopped spread in layers 4-5 leaves deep
- Half rotted compost this is bulkier and good around large plants and to cover larger areas.
- Leaf mould, excellent soil enhancer brought down into the soil by worms
- Well rotted manure nutrient rich apply to greedy plants such as fruiting crops and corn.
Pine needles are not suitable for all crops but strawberries love a thick mulch of pine needles. Wild strawberries are forest plants and can often be found around pine forests so this is a good way to replicate their natural environment it also keeps the fruit clean and off the soil and deters slugs.
When to mulch
The golden rule of mulching is to mulch when the soil is in perfect condition, in most cases when the soil is warm and moist. Mulching will maintain the condition of the soil so do not mulch if the soil is too dry or cold and wet, mulch when the soil is warm after rains or the ground has been watered.
Mulch when planting out or soon afterwards. Mulches can also be applied:
Autumn mulch overwintering crops: celeriac, leeks, parsnip, kale, winter radishes to keep soil warm, preserve soil structure and reduce ground frost making it easier to lift roots in frosty weather.
Early spring mulch lightly with garden compost after digging unless the soil is very wet. It will keep the soil in good condition ready for sowing and planting later.
Late spring summer mulch between rows after seedlings have germinated and between growing crops such as peas, beans, onions and carrots.
Summer mulch summer fruiting crops with a thick layer of straw to keep moisture down in the soil suitable for tomatoes, aubergines, peppers, courgettes, also good for cucurbits and other sprawling plants to keep their fruit clean and of good quality.
This is my list of the varieties to grow for 2009. It takes years, a life time probably, to find the very best varieties to suit your growing location and the taste of the cook. I grow a large selection, in small amounts, trying new things and continuing with the crops that really work for us. I really don’t think I will be able to pack this lot in but I am going to have a good go. I am supposed to be scalling back this year, as I won’t be able to spend so much time on the garden, but I just can’t help it so it will be interesting to see what makes it in and what produces well with less input from me.
- Onion, A.cepa Rossa Lunga Di Firenze / Red Torpedo*
- Onion A.cepa Rossa di Milano (SS)
- Onion A.cepa Rose de roscoff (SW)
- Onion A.cepa Blanca de Lisboa
- Onion A.cepa Giugnese / Bianca di Maggio(F)
- Onion A.cepa De Rebouillon (T)
- Onion A.cepa Tonda Musona (F)
- Onion A.cepa Banana Shallot
- Garlic A.Sativum Italian White (SS)
- Garlic A.Sativum Asiatic Turban (SW)
- Garlic A.Sativum Uzbek Turban (SW)
- Leek, A.porrum Bleu de Solaise (V)
- Broccoli, Purple Sprouting B.oleracea Rudolph extra early *(O)
- Broccoli, Purple Sprouting B.oleracea Late (O)
- Broccoli, Purple Sprouting B.oleracea Early (O)
- Broccoli B.oleracea Botrytis Cymosa Romanesco*
- Brussels Sprouts B.oleracea Gemmifera Group Noisette
- Cabbage, Savoy Ormskirk* (T) B.oleracea capitata
- Kale B.oleracea Acephala Red Russian * (SW)
- Kale B.oleracea Acephala Cavolo Nero / Black Tuscan Kale*
- Kale B.oleracea Acephala Georgia Southern Collard (HSL)
- Kale Asparagus Kale (HSL)
- Kale / Collard Greens B.oleracea Acephala Vates (SW)
- Kohlrabi Purple Vienna (I)
- Abyssinian Cabbage B.caranata Texsel (T)
- Chinese Cabbage B.rapa var Pekinensis unknown var
- Chinese Cabbage B.rapa var Pekinensis Michihli
- Pak Choi B.rapa var chinensis (K) aka Bok Choy
- Pak Choi B.rapa var chinensis Canton Dwarf (SS)
- Pak Choi B.rapa var chinensis Green Revolution (N) S
- Rosette pak choi B.rapa var rosularis Tatsoi
- Mizuna (SS) B. rapa var japonica
- Vitamin Greens B. rapa (Narinosa group)
- Sweetcorn Zea Mays Ashworth (RS)
- Sweetcorn Zea Mays Golden Bantam
- Armenian Cucumber Cucumis melo var. flexuosus(SW) new
- Cucumber Cucucmis sativus Bari (SW) new
- Cucumber Cucucmis sativus Burpless Tasty Green * (O)
- Cucumber (Gherkin) Cucucmis sativus Fin de Meaux (Tz/SS)
- Courgette C. pepo Verte D’Italie* (G)
- Squash, Summer C. pepo Thelma Sanders Sweet Potato Squash (RS)
- Pumpkin C. maxima Blue Hubbard (SW)
- Pumpkin C. maxima Uncle David’s Dakota Dessert squash (SW)
- Pumpkin C. maxima Green Hokkaido* (FdM/SS)
- Squash, Winter C. moschata. Butternut * (SS)
- Kiwano / African horned cucumber Cucumis metuliferus (SW) new
- Achocha Cyclanthera pedata (SW) new
- Mexican Gherkin Melothria scabra (Eden)
- Chayote Sechium edule (SS)
- Karela / Bitter Gourd Momordica Charantia. new
- Loofah Angled Luffa actangula new
- Loofah Smooth / Sponge Loofah Luffa cylindrica (SW) new
- Watermelon (Citrullus vulgaris) Kleckley’s Sweet (SW) new
- Watermelon (Citrullus vulgaris) Cream of Saskatchewan (SW) new
LEAF & SALAD
- Mâche (Valerianella locusta) A Grosse Graine
- Mâche (Valerianella locusta) Ronde Maraîchère
- Mâche (Valerianella locusta) Coquille de Louviers (V)
- Rocket Feuille d’Olive (Eruca vesicaria subsp.sativa. Brassicaceae)
- Rocket Cultivated * (Eruca Sativa M.)
- Rocket Wild (Diplotaxis tenuifolia)
- Endive(Cichorium endiva) FriséeFin de Louviers(LeP)
- Endive (Cichorium endiva) FriséeDe Meaux
- Endive (Cichorium endiva) Scarole
- Chicory, (Cichorium intybus) Witloof
- Chicory, (Cichorium intybus) Rouge de Vérone Red radicchio(V)
- Chicory, (Cichorium intybus) Variegata Di Chioggia Variegated Red radicchio (F)
- Chicory, (Cichorium intybus) Sugar Loaf (V)
- Chicory, (Cichorium intybus) Catalogna Gigante Chioggia (F)
- Spinach Spinacia oleracea Géant d’Hiver *
- Chrysanthemum Greens Glebionis coronaria
- Swiss Chard Beta vulgaris CiclaVerte a Carde Blanche*
- Amaranth .Amaranthaceae new
- Perilla, Green (Shiso) Perilla frustescens new
LETTUCE Lactuca sativa
Sow Lettuces for: Spring (Dec-Feb), Summer (March-May), Autumn (June-Aug), Winter (Sept-Nov)
- Lettuce Corsair Cos spring/summer/autumn
- Lettuce Brune D’Hiver Butterhead Winter/Spring
- Lettuce Rouge D’Hiver Romaine Winter/Spring
- Lettuce Rougette de Montpellier butterhead Winter/spring
- Lettuce Gloire de Dauphiné (Batavia) Winter
- Lettuce Winter Density* (Cos) Winter/spring
- Lettuce Verde D’Inverno (Cos) Autumn/Winter/spring
- Lettuce Valdor (Butterhead) winter undercover/spring
- Lettuce Sherwood (Cos) Spring
- Lettuce Regina dei Ghiacci* (Iceberg) spring/summer Italian
- Lettuce Reine des Glaces* ( Iceberg) spring/summer French
- Lettuce Paris Island Cos (Cos) spring/summer
- Lettuce Sucrine (Romaine) summer
- Lettuce Little Gem (Semi-Cos) summer
- Lettuce Craquerelle du Midi (batavia) summer
- Lettuce Laura (Batavia) summer/autumn
- Lettuce Soulie (butterhead)
- Lettuce Rouge Grenobloise* (Batavian) autumn/winter
- Lettuce Red Leprechaun (Romaine) autumn
- Lettuce Green Salad Bowl, (Loose-leaf) all year
- Lettuce Red Salad Bowl (Loose-leaf) all year
- Lettuce Lettuce Ubriacona (Loose-leaf) all year
- Lettuce Brunia, (Loose-leaf) all year
- Mesclun Home made mix
LEGUMES Fabaceae / Leguminosae
- Bean, BroadVicia Faba. Aquadulce Claudia (F)
- Haricot Phaseolus vulgaris
- Haricot (Dwarf) Fin de Bagnols filet
- Haricot (Dwarf) Roi des Beurres / Kinghorn yellow beurre bean
- Haricot (Dwarf) Maxidor *(SS) yellow beurre bean
- Haricot (Climbing) CosseViolette (G) purple
- Haricot (Climbing) Buenos Aires flat podded green
- Haricot (Climbing)Tarbais (K) white shelling
- Haricot (Climbing)True Red Cranberry shelling
- Haricot (Climbing)Yin Yang / orca or Calypso bean shelling
- Haricot (Climbing) Butterscotch Bean shelling
- Bean, Snake / Yard Long* Vigna unguiculata sesquipedalis (F/SS) Undercover
- Bean, Runner Phaseolus coccineus Scarlet Emperor (SS) Early
- Bean (Runner) Phaseolus coccineus Meesher (HSL)
- Pea Pisum sativum
- Pea Duke of Albany Maincrop, Tall
- Pea Alderman (SW)Maincrop, Tall
- Pea Petit Provencal Early, H 45cm
- Pea Purple Podded Pea Tall
- Pea Mangetout Pisum sativum macrocarpon Sow Feb – April & July
- Pea (snap) Sugar Ann (T) mid, H 65cm
- Pea (snow) Mammoth Melting Sugar Tall
- Pea (snow) Taiwan* Early, Tall
- Pea (snow) Golden Sweet Yellow
- Pea (snow) Norli (DO) H 60cm
- Okra Abelmoschus esculentus Texas
- Parsnip Pastinaca sativa White Gem (T&M) medium length smooth
- Parsnip Pastinaca sativa Demi-Long de Guernsey (C)
- Parsnip Pastinaca sativa Guernsey (HSL)
- Carrot Daucus carota Nantaise (K) all year
- Carrot Daucus carota John’s Purple (HSL)
- Carrot Daucus carota Red Elephant (HSL)
- Celeriac Apium graveolensvar.rapaceum Monarch (T&M)
- Beetroot Boltardy* (O) main summer crop
- Beetroot Rouge Crapaudine (K) Autumn-winter crop
- Beetroot Golden Detroit (O) Yellow
- Beetroot Lutz Winterkeeper winter crop & store
- Fennel Foeniculum vulgare de Parma Sel Prado (F) autumn & winter crop
- Turnip Brassica rapa var. rapa Rave D’Auvergne autumn & winter crop
- Radish Raphanus Sativus French Breakfast
- Radish Raphanus Sativus Daikon (mooli) (SW) autumn & winter crop
AUBERGINES Solanum Melongena.
- Szechuan *(HSL/SS)
- Thai Long Green (RS) long pale green
- Vkus Gribov (SW) (Taste of Mushroom) white
- Thai Round (SW) white / green
- Black Beauty (T&M) classic club shaped dark purple
- Skorospelij small fing er size purple
PEPPERS Sweet & Mild C.Annuum
- Doux D’Espagne/ Spanish Mammoth*
- Lipstick (SW)
- Red Pimento (SW)
- Yellow Cornos (SW)
- Nardello (HSL/SS)
- Californian Wonder (Orange bell) (SS)
- Golden Tranquility (yellow bell) (SW)
PEPPERS Medium for pickling & Paprika C.Annuum
- Pimientos Piquillo (SW)
- Romanian Antohi (RL)
- Pimientos de Padrón Spain
- Golden Greek Pepperoncini? (SS)
- Pepperoncini (K)
- Ancho 101 (SW) poor germ
- Lombardo (F)
- Aci Sivri C.annuum. (SW) Turkish
- Amarillo C.Baccatum (MS) Heat 7-8/10
- Bob’s Black Sea Chilli C.annuum.(SW)
- Cayenne (SS) Heat 7-8/10
- Ciligia Piccante/Satan’s Kiss C.Annuum Heat 1/10
- Chile De Arbol Heat 6-7/10 (SW) New seeds 2009
- Chiletepin orTepin C.Annuum var. glabriusculum Heat 8/10 Mexico
- Cyclon C.Annuum (SW) Poland
- D’Espelette C.Annuum Heat 3-4/10 French Basque
- Exploding Ember C.Annuum (SW/SS)
- Fish Pepper C.Annuum (SW) Heat 10/10
- Guindilla C.Annuum (Mar) Heat 3-4/10 Spain
- Grandpa’s Home Pepper C.Annuum (SS) Siberia
- Habanero, Peach C.Chinense Hot
- Habanero, Red (Mar) C.Chinense Heat 10/10
- Holy Mole C.Annuum (SW) Pasilla type F1
- Hungarian Death C.Annuum (AH/SW) Hungary, Very Hot
- India Goat Horn C.Annuum (SW)
- Jalapeño Conchos C.Annuum (SW/SS) Heat 4/10
- Jalapeño C.Annuum (SW) new seeds 2009
- Kashmiri 2009 C.Annuum (MS) Heat 7/10 market pepper
- Lemon Drop . Heat 8/10 (K/SS)
- Maroccan Green Hot C.Annuum (Mar)
- Oriental Red C.Annuum (Mar) mild
- Pasilla (k) C.Annuum Mexico Heat 1/10 poor germ but got 1 to germinate
- Rocoto Red C.Pubescens (SW) Peru
- Rotoco, Alberto C.Pubescens (SW)
- Santaka C.Annuum (SW) Japan Heat 8/10
- Scotch Bonnet, yellow C.Chinense (PC) Caribbean
- Serrano C.Annuum (SW) Heat 5/10
- Tabasco C.Frutescens (Tz) Louisianna Heat 8/10
- Thai Red C.Annuum (Mar/SS) Heat Level 8-9
Sow undercover 6-8 weeks before last frost, can take up to 3 weeks to germinate, plant out mid spring – early summer or sow direct.
- Ground Cherry/Physalis (Physalis Pubescens) Goldie (K) (SS) height of 30-40cm
- Ground Cherry/Physalis (Physalis Peruviana) Golden Berry Height 50-100cm
- Physalis (Physalis ????) A Gout de Prune S: Mar-April (PdC) said to taste like plums.
- Tomatillo, Purple Physalis philadelphicafor mexican savory sauces
TOMATOES (Solanum lycopersicum) Lycopersicon esculentum
Sow in Heat March-April or Direct May Transplant after last frost
- Tomato Cyril’s Choice (HSL)
- Tomato Greek (HSL)
- Tomato Double Rich* (K)(SS) red beefsteak
- Tomato Cuostralee (K)(SS) red beefsteak
- Tomato Ananas/ Pineapple yellow/red beefsteak
- Tomato Emerald Evergreen green beefsteak.
- Tomato Green Zebra (HSL/SS) small yellow/green stripe
- Tomato Black Zebra (Mar) small black/red stripe
- Tomato Tigerella (SW) small yellow/red stripe
- Tomato Zuchero (B&Q)small plum
- Tomato Yellow Pear (SW)
- Tomato Noir De Crimée *(V/SS)black
- Tomato Spanish Black (Mar)
- Tomato Kumato (Mar) black
- Tomato Caro Rich* (K/SS) orange
- Tomato Eva’s Purple Ball (SW/SS) pink/purple
- Tomato White Rabbit (K)(SS) white cherry
- Tomato Brown Berry (SW) brown cherry
- Tomato Black Cherry (K/SS) brown cherry
- Tomato Peacevine (HSL/SS) red cherry
- Tomato Roma V.F. determinate paste
- Tomato San Marzano* paste
- Tomato Cornu des Andes* paste
I am hoping to start a perennial garden; taking the form of a forest that willl mirror nature and contain plants that self-seed or produce a crop year after year.
- Asparagus Asparagus officinalis
- Sunchoke /Jerusalem Artichoke Helianthus tuberosus. Asteraceae
- Cardoon Cynara cardunculus.Asteraceae Plein Blanc Enerme S (March-April)-May H Sept-Dec
- Welsh Onion Allium fistulosum perennial
- Tree Onion Allium cepa proliferum Amish (SW) perennial
- Tree Onion Allium cepa proliferum Egyptian Walking Onion (SW) perennial
- Garlic Chives Allium
- Sorrel Rumex Scutatus perennial (O)
Those marked with a * are my favourite varieties ones I will always grow because they produce well and are valued in my kitchen.
S Sow TP Transplant P Plant H Harvest
Seed Source Code (SS) self saved (SW)Seed Swap (K) Kokopelli (HSL) Heritage Seed Library (F) Franchi Seeds (V)Vilmorin (DO) Duchy Originals (O) Organic Seed Catalogue (T) Tuckers Seeds (RS) Real Seeds (N) Nicky’s Seeds (PC) Potager d’un Curieux (Eden) The Eden Project (LeP) Le Paysan (Tz) Tezier (C) Caillard(AH) Amish Heirloom Seeds (Mar) saved from a market fruit
Thanks to seed swappers: David at Piglets Plots, Patrick at Bifurcated Carrots,Christina at A thinking Stomach, Sharon at Mustard Plaster , James at Growing Groceries, Matron at Down on the Allotment , Cindy in Texas, Anslem in Spain, Teleri from Olives and Artichokes, Bob in Tasmania, Søren from In The Toad’s Garden
NB Seeds Removed from list
I’ve had a problem with some of the seeds I’ve received in swaps and through Kokopelli members sharing scheme. The problem has been one of poor viability, I have a load of poor seeds particularly capsicums, old or not stored properly whatever they just won’t germinate so I’ve finally given up on them and removed them from the list after one last go with them last month.
Sweet Cherry (K), Ancho San Luis (SW), Anaheim TMR 23 (SW), Cascabella (SW), Chile De Arbol (SW) 2008, Jalapeño C.Annuum (SW) 2008 came from Tesco peppers I believe no germination Pasilla Bajio C.Annuum (SW), Trinidad Seasoning C.Chinense (SW) poor germ last year, weak plants produced no fruit this year no germination from remaining seeds.
My seed list is now finalised for 2008. I have to admit it is getting a bit out of hand this year with 33 tomato varieties, 18 lettuces and 32 varieties of capsicum, but they are what I like eating the most so there is reason to this madness. It will be a miracle if I can squeeze this lot in but I am going to try, many of the chillis are already growing as house plants still from last season.
Agretti or Salsola Soda (SW) Crunchy stems reminiscent of Samphire eat raw or steam when young. Rich in vitamins & minerals.
Aubergine, Szechuan (HSL) Long thin Chinese aubergine, collected by Joy Larkom in Chengdu, Szechuan in 1994
Aubergine, Violette Longue Droite (K) Long medium slim white tinged lavender fruit
Bean (Broad), Aquadulce Claudia (F) Best for autumn sowing produing excellent tasting beans in May. Use fresh, freeze or dry.
Bean (French Dwarf ), Duel (Tr) Green mangetout beans. Prolific crops, over a long period, of long fine green beans. Sow (March) and again mid April -May.
Bean (French Dwarf), Fin de Bagnols Very fine 17-18cm long green beans. Sow April-Aug H June-Oct
Bean (French Dwarf), Maxidor(G), Mangetout Beurre taste almost like sweetcorn 14-17 long tender wax pods. Sow mid April – Mid May outdoors
Bean (French Dwarf), Roi des Beurres (Kinghorn), (LeP), Mangetout Beurre 13-14cm long yellow pods S April-Mid Aug H June-Oct
Bean (French Dwarf), Purple Queen(U) – Purple mangetout beans. Very tasty pods that turn grey green when cooked. Sow mid April – Mid May outdoors
Bean (Runner), Scarlet Emperor(O) – heavy early cropping runner with full flavoured long textured dark-green pods.
Bean (Runner) Goliath (K) An old variety, also known as prizetaker, is productive, flowers are red, pods are medium dark green and 40cm long with black and purple seeds. ONLY 5 seeds in the packet non of them germinated
Bean (Shelling), Spagna bianco(F) – Large white beans, nearest i can find to a butter bean
Bean (Soya) Edamame Agate (K)
Bean (Yard Long), Snake (F) (SS) Vigorous climber with superb tasting 60cm long pale green pods. Excellent polytunnel crop.
Beetroot Boltardy (O) Excellent main crop of smooth round sweet tasting roots resistant to bolting. Sow early spring and Autumn.
Beetroot Rouge Crapaudine(K) Long slender roots, reputedly the oldest variety of beetroot. For Autumn harvest.
Beetroot Golden Detroit(O) Yellow fleshed beet good storer and resistant to bolting
Broccoli Raab 90 / 40 day(F) Also called Broccoletto or Cima de Rapa or turnip tops. Fast growing Italian leafy delicacy.
Broccoli (Sprouting) Wok Broc (O) Harvest Aug -Oct May not use this as broccoli does not crop well in summer here
Broccoli (Purple Sprouting) Rudolph(O) Harvest Oct-Jan
Broccoli (Purple Sprouting) Late (O) Harvest Jan-Feb
Broccoli (Purple Sprouting) Early (O) Harvest Marc
Broccoli Romanesco (O) Outstanding lime green conical heads like a cauliflower with delicious crisp nutty sweet taste.
Brussels Sprout, Noisette(O) Small to medium sprouts of delicious nutty flavour
Cabbage (Chinese) Pak Choi Green Revolution(N) pale green stems and green spoon shaped leaves. This turned out top be an F1 so won’t be saving the seeds to grow again.
Cabbage (Chinese) Pak Choi (K) 25cm tall. Stems are thick and leaves are medium green and round.
Cabbage (Chinese) Pak Choi Canton Dwarf Open pollinated. A compact,dwarf Pak Choi producing short,broad,thick,pure white stems with darkgreen leaves.Good tolerance to heat.
Cabbage (Chinese) Chinese Cabbage Pe-Tsai In my experience this one does not heart up. Best grown undercover in winter.
Cabbage (Chinese) Chinese Cabbage Michihili (K) Erect 45cm, tightly wrapped cylindrical heads, with dark green leaves and white ribs
Cabbage (Chinese) Tatsoi Yukina (T) Prostrate pak choi with dark green glossy leaves non-hearting, grows best in low temperatures.
Cabbage (Chinese) Tatsoi Tah Tsai (K) Spoon shaped dark green glossy leaves, grows best in low temperatures.
Cabbage Quintal D’Alsace(G) The classic cabbage for Sauerkraut, white dense heads for winter-spring harvest.
Cabbage (Savoy) Ormskirk (T) Outstanding dark green crinkly flavourful leaves for winter-spring harvest.
Capsicum (Sweet), Doux D’Espagne Outstanding pepper; prolific crops of long tapered green, maturing to red, tasty juicy fruits.
Capsicum (Sweet), Sweet Cherry(K) Small 5cm cherry shaped sweet red peppers , good pickled. 70days No germ.
Capsicum (Sweet) Topepo Rosso Round tomato shaped pepper, thick flesh good stuffer. 1 plant overwintered in tunnel
Capsicum (Sweet) Relleno Jaune(K)15cm long, slender, blunt ended fruits, cold tolerant. Good for stuffing or frying.
Capsicum (Sweet) Lombardo (V) Italian green frying pepper. 12-15cm long, thin skin and sweet, good pickled. 70 days failed
Capsicum (Sweet) Buran (SW) Polish heirloom. Said to be extremely sweet and productive 90 days
Capsicum (Sweet) Nardello(HSL) An Italian heirloom frying pepper. Long, sweet twisted red peppers with a slightly spicy, smoky flavour. 65-75 days.
Capsicum (Sweet) Chervena Chujski(SW) A Bulgaria heirloom. Good yields of 3 ½” long by 1 ½” wide sweet, red peppers. 85-90 days No germination
Capsicum (Mild) Turkish Sweet Cayenne (SW) Pods mature from green to yellow, to orange to red. 70 days. Pods are crinkled and curled. No germination
Capsicum (Mild) Golden Greek Pepperoncini?* Outstanding: Matures early. Large plants of about 5ft produce masses of peppers. Fruit are mild with a hint of liquorishy spice, thin-walled, and mature from green to red. Use: Fried, grilled, stuffed, raw or pickled. early 62 days (R) NB these mature from green to red with a lot of variation and I don’t think it is actually Golden Greek Pepperoncini see rogue chillis
Capsicum (Mild) Pimiento de Barcelona(SS) Heart shaped fleshy paprika peppers with a hint of heat. SS Barcelona Market.
Capsicum (Mild) Pimiento de Padron (SW) The Spanish tapas pepper. These did not grow as expected the small conical peppers were so hot I could not use them for the traditional Tapas of panfried peppers. They should be mild with only one in 30 or so being hot. These were nearly all too hot to use as anything but chilli seasoning. I will source new seeds for next year
Capsicum (Mild) Trinidad Seasoning Pepper A mild Habanero. 5cm long red fruits with an amazing exotic fruit flavour. These came from a street market in Tobago and were saved by Colin. (SW)
Capsicum (Mild) Pasilla Long thin pods mature to dark chocolate brown with raisin like aroma. Use dried or fresh. failed
Capsicum ((Mild) Pepperoncini(K) Italian pepper from Tuscany. Use green or red. Very mild spicy flavour, also pickled.
Capsicum (Med) Kashmiri (SW) Dark red Indian chilli pepper, famous for the flavour and colour it provides. Use fresh or dried. These came from a seed swap and I am still not sure these are true Kashmiri chillis.
Capsicum ((Med) Paprika (K) very disappointing pepper with little flavour and skin so tough as to be almost inedible.won’t grow it again
Capsicum ((Med) Ciligia Piccante* also known as Santan’s Kiss. Compact plants provide big crops of small round 4-5cm red cherry chillis. Spicy hot when raw these chilli loose a lot of their heat when cooked. Excellent stuffed and pickled, tapas style. (F)
Capsicum (Med) Romanian Antohi A pungent well flavoured paprika pepper with some heat makes great powder.
Capsicum (Med) Anaheim TMR 23 Relatively mild chilli and an old favourite. Long tapering green peppers borne on sturdy plants with good foliage cover. 74 days failed
Capsicum (Med) Maroccan Green(SS) 15cm long tapered green fruit with some heat. Seeds saved from a market pepper. failed
Capsicum (Med) Rocoto Orange (SS) Apple shaped translucent fleshy orange fruit with delicious flavour and black seeds. I took the seeds from an unusually mild rocoto. C.Pubescens can be slow to germinate. Use fresh.
Capsicum (Med) Black Sea Chillis(SW) These seeds came from a seed saver in Tazmania who has grown them for over 20 years.
Capsicum (Med) Grandpa’s Home Pepper (SW) A miniature Siberian pepper for growing indoors in pots, small red semi-hot peppers. 70 Days
Capsicum (Med) Explosive Ember (SW) 1in conical fruit ripen from dark purple to red on compact stunning plants with purple foliage and flowers. C. Annum
Capsicum (Med) Jalapeño Conchos Plants are tall bearing cylindrical smooth dark green pods 7-10cm long. Mild to medium heat and very useful mild chilli with thick flesh. This variety is an F1 but I am going to try saving seeds from it. 2500-10000 Scovilles Heat level 5-6
Capsicum (Med) Jalapeño Standard Jalapeños have 3″ thick walled fruits ripening from green to red when they become sweet. No germination (SW)
Capsicum (Hot) Rotoco (SW) not too clear about what this pepper will be
Capsicum (Hot) Rocoto Red (SW) C.Pubescens Fleshy apple shaped chilli with a lot of heat
Capsicum (Hot) D’Espelette(K) Great tasting old French Pays Basque variety,7-9 cm long cone shaped red fruits.
Capsicum (Hot) Cayenne (SS) A lovely hot chilli. 6-8cm long pods maturing from green to red. Great fresh, dries well and makes an excellent powder. Sturdy 4ft plants are prolific croppers.
Capsicum (Hot) Lemon Drop(K) (SS) 5cm long crinkly yellow chilli peppers produced on beautiful arching plants. Very hot with an unusual pronounced citrus flavour.
Capsicum (Hot) Thai Red(SS) An Asian chilli. Small 4cm long fiery pods mature green to red.Original seeds came from grocery peppers.
Cardoon Plein Blanc Enerme Perennial thistle like plant grown for the leaf stalks in winter. Unique taste and delicious.
Carrot, Nantaise (K) Good main crop carrot sow in autumn and spring
Chicory, Witloof, classic forcing chicory
Chicory, Palla Rosa Variegated di Chioggia White and red variegated radicchio
Chicory, Rouge de Verone Red radicchio
Chicory, Sugar Loaf (V) S:Jun-Aug Tightly wrapped upright green head.
Chicory, Catalogna Gigante Chioggia (F) S:Mar-Sept Upright long serrated greeen leaves from Chioggia.
Courgette, Verde di Milano (F) Dark green skin and dense crisp flesh.
Courgette, Verte D’Italie (G) Green fruit with pale yellow srtripe, flesh is dense and delicious
Courgette, Gold RushDelicious tasting crisp yellow courgettes great raw.
Cucumber, Burpless Tasty Green(O) Long slender fruits resistant to mildew grow outdoors or indoor
Cucumber, Marketmore Vigorous plants produce shortish dark green crisp and flavoursome cucumbers undercover or outdoors, can get a little bitter if left on the vine. Good raw or cooked .
Cucumber (Gherkin) Mexican Gherkin (Eden) also known as creeping cucumbers.
Cucumber (Gherkin) Fin de Meaux (Tz) small cylindrical green gerkins with black spines ideal for pickling.
Endive Frisee, Costa Blanca Classic frilly rosette of robust slightly bitter leaves will grow even from winter sowing.
Endive ScaroleBroadleaf smooth crisp white leaf base turning to light green
Fennel de Parma Sel Prado(F)– Excellent winter crop but we do have some problems getting it started in the heat of summer.
Garlic Italian white garlic bought 1 kg of seed garlic in Italy. A must grow crop for us
Garlic / Chinese Chives (FSM) Perennial clump forming plants. Eat the garlic flavoured leaves, buds and flowers.
Kale, Cav olo Nero Di Toscana (F) Also called Black Tuscan Kale and one of my favourite veg. Harvest winter to spring.
Kale, Red Russian (B. napus)(SW) Heirloom S1 March S2 mid Aug H Winter.
Khol Rabi, Purple Vienna (I) a cabbage grown for its swollen stem the leaves can be used too.
Leek, Bleu de Solaise (V) Large, hardy French heirloom for winter harvest
Onion (White Salad) Giugnese (F) S: Mar-May / July-Sept Italian white mid sized salad onion with semi flat bulb with pure white flesh.
Onion (White Salad) De Rebouillon (V) French white salad onion or ‘Oignon Blanc’ – Excellent Sow Spring or Autumn.
Onion (Pickling) de BarlettaS: Feb-April (V) Small white pickling onions can also be eaten as salad onions.
Onion (Red Salad) Rouge de Florence(F) Outstanding torpedo shaped red onion.Good in salad & stores well. Sow Autumn & Spring
Onion (White Salad) Raiollette des Cevennes(L) The famous sweet onion of the Cevennes, a must grow for us
Onion (main) Tonda Musona (F) S:(Jan-Feb) Mar-April (July-Sept) A large, round, white skinned onion. Good in salad & stores well.
Onion (main) sets Cipolla Bianca Bought 500g in Italy
Onion (main) sets Cipolla Stoccarda ‘Da Sohina’ Bought 500g in Italy
Onion (main) sets Rossa di Milano Home grown sets to grow for seed this year. Mildly hot Italian red onion and a good keeper
Parsnip, White gem (T) Finally got a harvest in 2007 with this variety so i’ll try it again. no germ seeds too old
Parsnip, Guernsey (HSL) Also called Guernsey Half Long and despite its name is a French heirloom over 150 years old. failed
Pea, (main) Kelvedon Wonder (Seeds given to me) round grain pea out of date so may not use.
Pea, (main) Petit Provencal(L) round grain pea, sweet and delicious
Pea, (drying) Latavian (HSL) Round seeded tall pea, called ‘Peleks Zirnis’ in Latvian meaning grey peas. Use as a dried pea
Pea (mangetout) Sugar Ann(T) A sugar snap mangetout pea. Crop failed 2006 try again.
Pea (Mangetout ) Mammoth Melting Sugar Pea (SW) Large 10-15 cm green stringless pods on tall plants of up to 2 metres
Pea (Mangetout ) Taiwan (SW) A sugar snap pea with crisp rounded edible pods.
Pea (Mangetout ) Corne de Belier S:Feb-April H: April-July, very large flat pods crisp and tasty can grow to a height of 2m.
Perpetual Spinach Verde da TaglioClassic Italian variety
Pumpkin/Squash Tromba D’Albenga (SS) An Italian climbing/trailing squash. Pale green curly courgettes in summer that mature to enormously long curved buff coloured pumpkins by winter.
Pumpkin/Squash Uchiki Kuryor Red Kury(K) Japanese origin. Dark red spinning top shaped fruits with a chestnut flavour.
Pumpkin/Squash Butternut Ponca(K) An heirloom from the Ponca Tribe, USA. Early butternut.
Pumpkin/Squash, Buttercup Bush(K) Compact bush producing green, flattened fruit with sweet orange flesh. failed
Radish, French Breakfast great quick cropping veg use roots raw and leaves cooked, best in the colder months.
Sorrel (O) perennial leafy crop with an acidic taste use to flavour soups and fish.
Spinach, Matador known as a summer spinach but this small leaved variety can’t take our summers so i grow it as a winter crop.
Sweetcorn Sweetie(O) – very disappointed this seed arrived F1 though not named in catalogue as such
Swiss Chard Verte a Carde Blanche (G) excellent tasting crisp white midribs and dark green leaves.
Tetragon / New Zealand Spinach (SS) lush low growing succulent, withstands heat and drought well, use like spinach.
Texel Greens (SS) prone to bugs but i’ll give it another go and try new ways of cooking to see if it’s worth growing in future.
Tomato, (Red) Red Pear (F) Unusual large pear shaped Italian red beefsteak tomato with vertical ribs. Indet.75days
Tomato, (Red) Brandyvine Dates back to 1885 and is regarded as one of the world’s finest flavoured beefsteak tomatoes
Tomato, (Red) Double Rich (K) (SS) Delicious largish red fruit with firm flesh, great taste and high levels of vitamin C. Originally grown for Assocation Kokopelli see Technical Seed Saving Records Indet.65-70 days.
Tomato (Red) Cyril’s Choice (HSL) An heirloom. Good flavoured, juicy red fruit. Indet. but compact growth.
Tomato (Red) Oroma (K) Russian heirloom. 120g long sometimes pointed fruit. Det. 85-90days trying this one because they are said to be easy to peel so maybe usefull in the kitchen for me.
Tomato, (Black) Noir De Crimée (V) Outstanding large black tomato with green shoulders and dark savory flesh. 70-80days
Tomato, (Black) Carbon(K) Dark purplish-brown on the outside with a deep brick-red interior. Flavour is rich and sweet. Medium to large fruit, flattened round and smooth. Crack and blemish free. Indet.80 days
Tomato, (Black) Japanese Black Trifele (Seed Savers Exchange via SW with Patrick)
Tomato (Pink) Eva’s Purple Ball(SW) Pinkish Purple round fruit with a good flavour Indet.65-75 days
Tomato, (Yellow) Taxi Yellow (K) Smooth round yellow fruit with great flavour. Compact, cold tolerant Det. 65days
Tomato, (Orange) Caro Rich (K) Fruit are a deep orange, delicious and productive. High provitamin content. Indet.80days
Tomato, (Green) Charlie’s Green (SS) Fantastic tasting green tomato. Not sure of purity until grown, saved by fellow grower.
Tomato (Green) Cherokee Green(SW) Yellowish green skin with green flesh and lovely rich flavour. Indet. 85 days .
Tomato, (bi-coloured) Green Zebra (HSL) Flavour is mildly sweet and tangy green & yellow verticle stripes. Indet.85days
Tomato, (bi-coloured) Marvel Striped (K) Beefsteak from Mexico. Large yellow/orange with pink stripes and rich, sweet fruity flavours. Does not like a wet climate. 85-105day
Tomato (bi-colour) Marizol Gold (K) Large slightly flattened fruit are deep gold with a red blush on the blossom end and red streaks throughout the flesh and ribbed shoulders. Good yields, outstanding flavor, and very little problem with cracking or blemishes. Heirloom from the Black Forest region of Germany. Indet.85 days
Tomato, (cherry) Gardener’s Delight Red cherry tomato, some say the best tasting cherry tomato and it is pretty good
Tomato, (cherry) Peacevine(HSL) An American heirloom with sweet tangy flavour and very high amino acid content. Indet.70days Tomato, (cherry) Red Pear (SS) Small, sweet pear shaped red fruit on sprawling plants. Semi-det.75days
Tomato, (cherry) Black Cherry (K) Smallish fairly tasty brown cherry tomatoes.
Tomato, (cherry) White Rabbit (K) Creamy-white cherry tomato a recent development by Joe Bratka, NJ. 1.5m sprawling plants bare clusters of tiny fruits with excellent flavor. Indet.
Tomato, (cherry) Sungold (SW) Very sweet orange coloured cherry tomato. Prolific cropper. Indet.57 days.
Tomato (cherry) Garden PearlA completely determinate bush type produces lots of pinkish fruits.
Tomato, (paste) San Marzano(F) Excellent Italian plum tomato makes great passata, susceptable to blossom end rot. Indet.
Tomato, (paste) Roma(V) Small plum shaped tomato for cooking and conserving. Det.78days
Tomato, (paste) Cornu des Andes(SW) Pepper shaped rich, red meaty fruits. Excellent cooking tomato. Semi-Det 75days
Tomato, (paste) Porter Old Texan variety of small, thin skinned, pink-red plum tomatoes. Resistant to drought, cracking and sunburn.
Tomato, (Drying) Principe Borghese (SW) Italian heirloom said to be the best for drying. Small grape shaped fruits have few seeds, rich taste. Determinate, 75 days.
Tomato, Cuostrallee (K) A French beefsteak heirloom that produces huge red, meaty fruits with intensely rich tomato taste. Ribbed shoulders, 10cm accross and weigh 500g to 1kg. Growing this year as seed guardian for Kokopelli Indet.85days
Turnip, Rave D’Auvergne White, crisp flesh with a purple blush on the shoulder. Sow late summer for autumn/winter crop.
Lettuce and Salad Leaves
Sherwood, Cos Compact with green crisp leaves and a delicious sweet flavour.
Red Leprechaun, Romaine Compact with shiny, dark-purple puckered leaves and good flavour.
Green Salad Bowl, Loose-leaf spring
Regina dei Ghiacci, Iceberg spring/summer
Paris Island Cos, Cos spring/summer New 2008
Soulie, Heirloom Cos New 2008
Sucrine, Romaine summer
Little Gem, Semi-Cos summer
Reine des Glaces, Iceberg summer
Craquerelle du Midi, summer
Ubriacona Batavia, summer/autumn winter undercover
Laura Batavia summer/autumn New 2008
Verde d’inverno Cos Autumn/Winter/spring
Winter Density Cos Winter/spring
Rouge Grenobloise, Batavian excellent winter lettuce, good in cold and shade. Large heads with crisp ruffled leaves tinted red.
Valdor winter undercover/spring New 2008
Rougette de Montpellier butterhead Winter/spring
Brunia, Oak-leaf all year
Red Salad Bowl Loose-leaf all year
Lambs Lettuce Ronde Maraichere Winter/spring
Mizuna (SS) Highly productive oriental leafy brassica. Full of flavour for use in salads or as cooked greens.
Rocket (SS) sow all year round excellent leaf for salads or in pasta dishes
Parsley, Italian Flat Leaf (SS) Bi-annual, easy to grow, well flavoured herb or leafy vegetable.
Herbs are not listed as there are too many of them.
Physalis, Goldie Small 2cm round orange fruits in papery husks. Fruit havea wonderful sweet tart flavour and store well all winter.
Melon, Cantaloup D’Alger (K) An old heirloom with compact growth. Warty, dark green, oblong fruit, with silver white marks. The flesh is thick and juicy and the taste is perfumed and very sweet.
Original Seed Source Key
(HSL)Heritage Seed Library, (K)Kokopelli (F)Franchi/Seeds of Italy (V)Vilmorin (O)Organic Catalogue (N)Nicky’s Seeds (TM)Thompson & Morgan (L)Local seed merchant (G) Gondian (Tr)Truffaut (R) Roguelands (T)Tuckers (FSM) Ferme de Sainte Marthe (U)Unwins (Tz) Tezier, (LeP) Le Paysan, (PD) Plants of Distinction
(SS)Self-saved (SW)Seed Swaps
A Big Thanks to to those who have swapped or sent me seeds to try:
Colin Bristol, England
Patrick Bifurcated Carrots, NL
Chantal in Rugby, England
Nemo in County Kerry, Ireland
Primo Santeria in Louisiana, USA
Pat in Sheffield, England
Bob in Tasmania, Australia
Lieven in Belgium
Torbjorn Hellstrom in Horby, Sweden
This is my growing list for the year. If you want to swap seeds with me go to the seeds swap page to see what seeds I have available to share.
This is my list of seeds to grow in 2007. The selection of seeds is fairly extensive and is still being worked on to fine tune and get the best combination of crops for the kitchen throughout the year. Just a quick note on this years selection. I have started weeding out the types of crops that don’t grow so well here, such as root crops, or the stuff we are just not so keen on eating, so that we can make more room for our favourites and more versatile produce for the kitchen. This list has a bias toward heirloom or open pollinated varieties so that we can develop our own little seed bank in time. What I am also starting to look for are varieties of our favourite crops that are more resistant to climate extremes, in particular drought and heat in the summer crops and hardiness in the winter crops.
We are on the second year of trials to find the perfect green courgette; triallingVerde di Milano against Defender(F1) and the cherry tomato Gardeners Delight against Supersweet 100(F1). Apart from that we are still trying to get the right balance of storage and salad onions to keep us through the whole year. We’ve got the brassica selection just about right now apart from cabbage I am still looking for a good winter through to spring cabbage.
Herbs and Armomatic Leaves
Leaves: Chicories & Endives
Peppers & Chillis
We have real difficulty with growing roots on our shallow acidic soil so i may not sow any of these this year if we run out of space.
* after the variety indicates it is a favourite and must grow variety.